Cross Slide Tooling/Mounting Plate for Boxford

In my attempt to bore between centres I have come across the issue that my Boxford does not have a T-slotted cross slide so I`m going to struggle holding the work onto the saddle/cross slide. I recently found Boxford did produce a boring table. (links broken and removed)

The bottom is the same round dove tailed attachment that the compound slide uses:

I figured if I could turn up a similar spigot and bolt it to a plate it would lock down tight just like the compound slide.

So I turned the spigot by making a form tool as I realised the angle wasn`t critical, it just had to be angled so that the grub screws pull down on the taper. So here is the spigot sitting on the plate and I also turned a small approx 0.5mm register on the bottom of the plate to locate the spigot.

Spigot sat in register:

Bolted in place and profile of spigot:

…and locked into position, very firm and certainly won`t move!

Now I just need to decide how to finish the top. I did consider T-slotting it but I`d have to buy a suitable endmill which will cost. I think perhaps the best way will be to drill and tap in a 1″ square grid?
The plate is 3.75″ x 8″

I decided to tap M10 as this is thread on my clamping kit. There are also 4 M6 holes at the extreme corners, I don`t know why, I just thought that may be useful for holding work down. I wish now I had started nearer the edge with the M10 holes but never mind. Worse case is I make a new plate although I doubt I`ll need to. Here is the plate mounted

I just had to clamp something down to test it out :-/

Now I can hopefully use it in boring between centres to hold my work down to the cross slide.

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7 responses to “Cross Slide Tooling/Mounting Plate for Boxford”

  1. Jack Rogerson says:

    It just shows what can be done with a little imagination.
    The one thing that always worries me about boring tables, is the lack of any height adjustment.
    As for drilling a grid of holes, if it were me I would just drill whatever holes you need to do the job in hand. Then drill more for the next job etc.
    Well done anyway.

  2. admin says:

    Cheers Jack.

    Yes, I did consider just drilling for what I needed but then I thought even with my M10 grid I`ve still got plenty of room for drilling holes when required. I do certainly agree regarding height adjustment, it is a pain. Thanks again for the reply and visiting my site.


  3. Steve thorne says:

    Great work, smart web site ! Iv’e just put my self one hour behind things i must do today so i’lle be back

    please keep it up

  4. admin says:

    Cheers Steve

    Good to see people having an interest in the things I`ve been up to! Thanks for visiting.


  5. David Firby says:

    Great website…..loads of food for thought on future home workshop projects…but first the boring table to fit my Smart & Brown Sable at home….similar to the Boxford.
    I have almost completed a Synchronome project, just got some tweaking to do to get it running, I suspect too large a pendulum weight…is this possible?
    Please have a look at our company website as above, we play with pneumatic gauging for industry…hope you find it interesting.

    regards David

  6. Raynerd says:

    Hi David
    You will have to post some pictures if you find time of your synchronome, I`d like to see it chris@raynerd.co.uk
    I can`t imagine the pendulum being too large would be a problem other than the issue of ripping the clock off the wall!! Are you giving the rolling ball on the pendulum enough time to run on the pendulum pallet? i.e make sure the contacts are far enough apart before the electromagnet fires and resets the gravity arm.

  7. Jack Rogerson says:

    Hi Chris,
    I have an idea about height adjustment of the boring table. Make up a spigot which will fit the hole in the cross slide and lock it in place in the normal manner (grub screws). Instead of making this spigot short enough to fit under the boring table, make it longer, so that it goes through the boring table. It might also be an idea to make the top end a larger diameter, for rigidity.
    The boring table needs to have a saw-cut right through it’s thickness, from the hole to the outside edge. A long bolt could then be used to clamp the table to the new long spigot. The downside is:- the spigot would stick through the top surface of the table.
    Anyone got any more ideas?

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