Cross slide:

compound slide:

The gap/play in the cross slide. This closes if you pull it back but of course the play is there.

Compound Slide:
Notice on this axis the graduated dial is in two parts which fit perfectly together on a shoulder to allow smooth running (this isn`t so on the cross slide)
You can see the collar which is locked up onto the lead screw by the grub screw shown in the photo. The screw running threw the graduated dial then tightens up onto this collar. I believe this should be a screw tightening up onto a spring rather than the screw directly onto the collar? A washer is then assembled, I think to take up play and then the handle is just held on by a grub screw and a then a horrible nut is awkwardly fastened onto the end.

Cross Slide:
The first two pictures show the lead screw of the cross slide removed, and notice the gap. The hole section slides back and forth and as you can see, when you slide it the other way the gap appears on the other side - pics 1 and 2.

On this one, the graduated dial only has one hole and a huge screw and locks directly onto the leadscrew, there is no collar that fits under the graduate dial. The little collar you can see just seems to be a lock which holds everything to the left of it (i.e whats in picture 1 and 2) in place.
I have a feeling it is the position of this collar which is giving me this play as it this collar which is allowing the section shown in the 2 pictures above to move left and right (left towards the lead screw and then right, it gets stopped by the collar)

But you can`t push the collar up any further against the back of the graduated dial (left in the picture) to remove the slack. Infact, looking at the picture, you can see the shoulder on the back of the grad dial and the grub screw sticking up, you can`t get in there to tighten the grub screw with the collar upto that section. It must be right how it is as a wider collar wouldn`t allow the grad dial front and back to close on itself

I found the grad dial a bit strange on this one. It looks more like an original Boxford dial from the photo`s I`ve seen but there seems to be a shoulder going inwards on both parts!?! Well, unlike the cross slide grad dial where the two parts lock into each other nice and snug, these two half sections don`t. I`m guessing something is missing to lock them together in the grooves/shoulders between the two sections.

Next - tidy the code, build a circuit and get it fitted onto the mill.

and then I sealed the side of the displacer onto the top plate:

This evening I managed to cut the counter weight but I have to admit I struggled with this. At one point the flywheel was clearly falling to the bottom weighted position. The instructions, as I read them, was to keep trimming material from the weight until the flywheel landed at random positions. After quite a bit of material coming off the weight, I did get to a position where it became a little more random but it still favoured one side – I am concerned the power piston brass centre is too heavy as it is this falling to the lowest position which is causing the flywheel to end up at one side. That said, it isn`t as bad as it was so I`m hoping it is balanced correctly. If it doesn`t work it`ll definitely be my first “check”.
All the bits together and a picture of my trying to balance the system without the bottom plate.

And now the bottom plate sealed in position:

I guess the proof will be in the pudding when I try it out tomorrow when the sealant has gone off!

The tool is very simply a bearing mounted on some sort of arbour. In my case it is a piece of steel bar
and the bearing bolted to the end. The chap in the video has welded the bearing in place and this is actually better. The problem I have with my bolting method is that the bolt pertrudes and can interfere with what your trying to true up in the chuck. That said, it hasn`t been a problem yet but can see that I`ll get in a situation where I can`t use it because of the nut at some point.

The tool is setup on the tool post so that the bearing is held parallel to the jaws. The work is lightly clamped in the jaws and the bearing moved towards the work piece until the bearing spinds consistantly.

The video shows much better than I can explain but I have to say that this has been working 100% for me and has made this job much quicker.

This is the holder for the displacer being formed

I next needed to make a similar holder for the flywheel. The plans for the flywheel to be glued to the holder but I wanted to be able to change it from something more aesthetically pleasing, I`m not keen on two CDs stuck together..but again I want to stick to the plans until it runs!

To make the flywheel changeable, I wanted to drill 4 holes so that I could attach it with small screws. So onto the milling machine and mounting my new Boxford spindle nose attachment so I can use the Boxford chuck. Only ever cutting gears, believe it or not, I`ve never using it this way around so have only just run into this potential disaster!! It doesn`t fit!!!!! I need a solution for future!

Luckily with about 2mm clearance I could just centre spot the hole locations but it certainly wasn`t ideal.

Two CDs were glued together and attached to the holder

And now all the pieces in the box ready for polishing and assembly!

OK, I couldn`t resist a quick mock up..notice this was a temporary single disk on the flywheel, it seems to run very very smooth but then the power piston wasn`t in. It did give me an idea of what it would look like.

Hopefully further updates shortly! I will need to leave it at least 18 hours for the sealant to dry and of course that is if I get onto it tonight.
Thanks for the comments and interest so far.
Chris

Here is the old single phase motor at the back with the newer 3 phase motor.

I`ve had to re-wire the 3 phase motor from “star” to “delta” or mesh as it calls it on the motor backing plate

And the pendant that I had to build, I`ve changed mine a little bit compared to this one so I`ll post what mine actually looks like after, regardless, it is the same button function just a different layout.

When the inverter arrived from Gavin off homeworkshop, I was chuffed with the condition of it but shocked when I found the pendant was just parts and you needed to put them together yourself. OK OK, maybe I`m being greedy but I was kind of expecting it to be built and although a simple circuit, I can imagine some could be a little confused by the build, let alone having the equipment. Anyway, enough on that. I connected it all up which took several hours…I know I know …I didn`t want to blow it up! Oh and of course I had to go to maplin to get a nice green start button :ddb: :ddb:

Why the hell I choose to video this I don`t know…I think we have all seen a variable speed motor running but here you go! For your viewing pleasure, in HD and in 3D!! With extra loud volume!

The only thing I dislike is when you change from rev to fwd, when you make that selection the motor starts. You can then stop and start using the correct button but again when you stop the motor and go to change direction, it kicks the motor back up in the new direction.

I`ve just managed to get in running on the lathe so pictures to follow…

I was lying in bed last night thinking about gluing the rest of the crank shaft and then I thought again, should I really not be following the plans! I`d also ignorantly cut the crank shaft into all the right sized little bits to soft solder into position. It was only when I chose to read the text that comes with the plans does it explain to insert that as one long piece, soft solder and cut the small sections out. Of course, despite having to remake the crank axis, this method allows perfect alignment and the only thing I had to do was set the cranks 90deg apart. I thought about a fancy jig and then decided that I could do this using a couple of pin vices.

My soft soldering leaves a lot to be desired. My flame seems too fierce and I end up with a huge blob of solder around the part. However, some time, effort and a lot of sanding got rid of the most of it.

Here is everything assembled so far. Perhaps I`ll have some time for the displacer tonight!

After going on about the displacer and how pleased I was with the graphite, I`m now not sure! It seems to move freely and when I blow it, the pressure builds up and the piston shoots out. However, the fall through test doesn`t work very well, it still falls through… humm would you go with this piston or try and change it? The piston will be something that could be changed once all is assembled. I`m tempted to run with it….

Here is a picture of the parts so far but not including the glass cylinder and graphite piston - they are safe away from potential smashes! I`ve now cut the main parts for the crank shaft assembly - the displacer and piston rods, various size parts to the crank axis and of course the four webs.

I`ve also turned the tiny graphite bushes that sit between the webs and allow smooth movement of the rods.

I have now made a small error as at the same time I`ve not soldered the other axis to give the 90deg shift. I DID thread them onto the axis to keep them aligned whilest silver soldering these bits and my intention was to solder the axis for the 90 deg shift in my next “shop time”. Of course when I solder the next bits, it`ll loosen the current soldered parts!! I am strongly considering gluing the other parts that make up the crank assembly. Especially with it being a stirling engine, there are few excessive forces or temperatures to worry about.

Parts in a bucket after just being cleaned in paraffin.

Rebuilt - just to check I could remember!!

And stripped again for sanding

Then repainted light grey - does it look too like undercoat ?? Sorry, the pic isn`t too detailed with a little bit too much in the background but they were still wet to move and it was the only place dust free!

Here is the lathe when I first got it and it is pretty much unchanged up to now:

Here is saddle/ carriage removed and full of swarf filled black oil…. aka gunk!

Few more various bits removed as well as change wheels and motor bracket and motor.

Just the headstock left on the bed with the gearbox. It is hard work getting the head off. I`m going to need to make some sort of bent spanner to give me enough lever between the bed! The head has to come off to reveal the screws holding on the gear box.

Old motor is at the top with the newer blue Brook Crompton 3/4hp 3 phase motor that is a perfect replacement! I had a boxford shaper and this 3 phase motor came off it. Luckly I kept it as it is now going to be perfect to install with an inverter to give me variable speed! If you look back at the photos of the headstock you can see the crude on off switch and reverse fitted in a terrible position with bad wiring. This three phase motor will allow me to have vari speed and a neat control box for the unit.

New 3 phase motor detail plate.

So the headstock and gearbox off next once I sort out a suitable spanner!